Soho Bakery Vesuvio Reopens After Long Hiatus – Eater NY

Restaurant News

It’s something of an urban miracle. Eleven years after it closed, and 100 years after its founding, Soho’s Vesuvio Bakery has reopened, looking much like it did back in the day. In the interim, a Birdbath Bakery occupied the space. The front of the storefront at 160 Prince Street is now painted a sea foam shade of green, the gilt letters advertising Italian bread and biscuits have been restored, and an ancient dough-dividing machine — found in the basement during renovations — is in the window, along with the ranked stirato loaves that beckoned customers from the sidewalk for nearly nine decades.

A baker in a white apron stands in front of Vesuvio Bakery in a historic photo.

Anthony Dapolito stands in front of Vesuvio Bakery in 1989,
Photo by Mike Albans/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

The revamped bakery is the project of owner Adam Block, who also operates Print Restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen. He secured permission from the family of Anthony Dapolito, founder of the bakery, to use the name again. He brought on Sofia Schlieben, who worked previously at Marea and Veritas, as chef and baker. She told me, “Our goal is to pay homage and respect to the original bakery.” In doing so, she has recreated its original Italian baguettes, grissini (bread sticks), pignoli cookies, and tomato-dabbed focaccia. She’s added to the repertoire with more modern notions of bread, including fig and hazelnut, and olive and rosemary loaves, as well as a strong-tasting sourdough.

A croissant covered with sesame seeds.

Sesame croissant
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

From the breads and focaccia, a small selection of sandwiches are prepared. On the day I stopped by (the bakery only opened this past Tuesday), there was a roasted vegetable sandwich and another featuring thin-sliced prosciutto. Other products available, “consistent with the current tastes of the neighborhood,” Schlieben told me, include sesame croissants with a sesame paste inside, adding a little sweetness; panzerotti, a sort of Italian cheese turnover; olive oil cakes topped with slivered almonds; and a very creamy Italian cheesecake tasting strongly of lemon and exhibiting a graham cracker crust.

The renovation took several months. It was “an almost archeological experience,” Schlieben said, pointing to the dough divider in the window, and demonstrating how it was once used to divide balls of dough too bulky and heavy to be accurately parsed by hand. She also said they’d be leaving it in the window to remind people how old Vesuvio Bakery was.

Vesuvio is now open every day from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

A woman stands behind a pastry counter as two clerks look on.

Chef Sofia Schlieben presides behind the counter.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

160 Prince Street, New York, New York 10012

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